Day 1, Sept 28: Porto to Vila do Conde

Distance: 33.0 km, 20.5 miles, 1107' climbed

A statue of St. James along the route near Porto

I woke up at 5am eager to get started. After my morning routine, final repacking, and checkout from the hostel, I was "on the trail" at 5:55. My camino started on the quiet, deserted streets of Porto, lit by the local street lights. I had to climb some steep streets from my hostel down by the Douro river to get on the actual route - at least it was cool. And I was navigating by map early on - if there were Camino markers I couldn't see them in the dark! It was an hour before I saw the first sign. After that, there were many. But I learned I really needed to pay attention to see them - it was easy to miss a turn!

A marker set in the paving stones

A marker posted high along the road

It was almost two hours before I saw fellow pilgrims. Then I gradually saw more the further I progressed. There were a few biking pilgrims, which kinda seemed like cheating - they could do in 2 or 3 days what will take me 8 or 10!

The route today, after finally escaping the city, was inland from the coast (I will get to the water early tomorrow), and almost completely on paved public roads - sometimes with a sidewalk, sometimes not. Cars seem to be aware and cautious when the road was narrow, but I expect to see quieter conditions as I head further north.

The first couple I encountered, on a nice sidewalk just outside Porto.

A cobblestone segment in a more secluded area. 

I went longer than originally planned today, because of forecasted rain showers for tomorrow that may make it difficult to do as much. I've had a sore knee recently, but it held up pretty well, as did my artificial hip. My feet were pretty tired by the end of the day though.

What was described in the local signage as a "medieval bridge," first built in the 12th century. Some of the original stones they claim are still there.

I'm thinking I will include these three segments each day in my posts:

SOMETHING THAT REMINDED ME OF BONNIE

There are many things each day, of course. But I'll pick one to talk about. Today it was the cobblestone pavements. I taught Bonnie the Portuguese word for these paving stones, which is paralelepípedo. It's a fun word to say - pah-rah-lel-leh-PEE-pi-doo. She memorized the word and loved to say it, especially during our mission in Argentina and Paraguay, where we found many streets paved like this (though the Spanish word is very different). The LDS Church made a special kind of wheelchair to help negotiate these uneven pavers and other challenging terrain. But I know I will never see a cobblestone road without hearing Bonnie say the Portuguese name in my mind!

SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL IN GOD'S CREATION

Yellow is already becoming a theme color on this Camino thanks to the yellow arrows that point the way. I love flowers, and have been seeing lots of these gorgeous "angel trumpet" bushes. Even that name seems somehow appropriate right now!

INTERESTING PEOPLE ALONG THE WAY

I am learning that not all of the pilgrims are interested in chatting. We'll see how that changes over time. But I had some great interactions so far. In my hostel last night, when only two of us were in the room, a young man put down a rug and started to pray in the Muslim style. I chatted briefly with him later and told him I was grateful to see him express his faith. He was from Egypt, I think. I am not sure he was coming on a Camino. I was on an upper bunk, so he probably didn't see me when I said my evening prayer.

I had several nice chats with a young couple from Belgium, who spoke pretty good English. We leapfrogged each other a few times during the day. They are just here because they love to hike. An older man (about my age - ha!) from Valencia, Spain helped me practice some Spanish. He said he is hiking for his health. He is in my hostel tonight, and took 2 days to get here, where I took one. He was amazed I was able to do it that fast. And there is a Portuguese father, mother, and daughter who are here for a family bonding experience.

All in all, a pretty good start!