Day 2, Sept 29: Vila do Conde to Fão

Distance 21.53 km, 13.38 mi, 48' elevation gain

Today had a slower start. I was awake and packed early, but it was raining, and after looking at the weather forecast I decided to wait to start my hike. I left the hostel at 7:15. There were a few drizzles early on, and a few more through the day, but generally fairly light. My rain gear protected me and my pack just fine.

Early in my walk in Vila du Conde I saw the street art at the top of this post. It was titled "monument to teachers and educators." It shows the teacher on the left passing knowledge to the eager student on the right. I like that imagery, and thought about my mother's unique gift of teaching. The monument shows that it also takes a student willing and eager to receive.

I stopped to take a picture of my reflection in the store window that was acting like a good mirror. You can see my rain protection. The blue coat has a hood.

In the mornings, since nothing is open, I usually have something small to eat that I have on hand before I leave the hostel. But after about 2 hours of hiking, I like to stop for "second breakfast." I think this is a good custom. Here is what I had today, which was exactly double what I had yesterday! The pastry is Portugal's specialty, "pastel de Nata." And I'm grateful they like the Brazilian specialty guaraná here almost as much as Brazilians. Hiking makes you thirsty!

I came to the ocean early on this morning, and spent most of the day walking near the beach with the wonderful sound of the surf and the smell of the ocean water to accompany me. 

The paths I walked today were much more enjoyable than yesterday. Very little of it was on pavement or busy roads. The majority of the day was probably on boardwalk next to the beach. Other sections were on dirt roads or trails through wooded areas. And even the streets were smaller and quieter than yesterday. Here are some examples.

What a great day of walking! There was a pretty steady breeze that seemed to always be at my back, urging me along.

I decided today to smile and say "bom dia" (good day) to everyone I passed. A few didn't even look up or respond, but most were a little surprised, and responded in kind. It was a nice experiment. I don't think many of them expected that from an American-looking tourist.

SOMETHING THAT REMINDED ME OF BONNIE

I grew up in the mountains of Utah, and rarely had been to the beach before I met Bonnie. She grew up going to the beach several times a year. So I had a lot to learn from her! She really loved floating in the ocean, walking along the sand, and just sitting and listening to the sound of the waves. She helped me gain some of that same appreciation. Today brought many tender flashbacks of times we shared with family at various beaches. And in recent years, sometimes with just the two of us. One of the recent memories was sea kayaking in the Algarve in southern Portugal just a few years ago.

We had hoped to make one more family beach trip but time ran out.

SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL IN GOD'S CREATION

I wasn't able to take a photo, but I had a moment of incredible joy when it was raining on me. Normally that's a time of frustration and annoyance, but today I just felt the beauty of water returning to Earth to bring more life and replenish the surroundings. (It's actually quite fun to walk in the rain when you're prepared for it!) Maybe since we live in almost perpetual drought in Utah, I'm a little more sensitive to the blessing of rain.

INTERESTING PEOPLE ALONG THE WAY

I've been surprised how very few Americans I'm encountering. I'm sure they're here, but I've probably seen only a few couples or groups. I noted that the hostel where I'm staying had a world map with pins showing visitors' home countries; it is overwhelmingly represented by Europeans.

(Can you find my yellow pin?)

I had a short chat with a young fellow from South Korea, a country surprisingly strongly represented on the map. He had two older siblings who had come in past years and so he had to follow their example.

I'm also seeing more women that I expected, single or in pairs. I'm glad that they feel safe enough to do this. One told me she has never really felt unsafe at any time so far.

Two delightful older women from Portugal were happy to chat. They are trying to stay young and fit in their mid-70s. They have their bags sent ahead from city to city so they don't have to carry them.

I'm making good time - hoping to add a variation to my itinerary that I will mention later. Two more days in Portugal before crossing to Spain!